This hotel is probably the best known in Nepal, due to its connections with the near-legendary Boris Lissanevitch, who ran the original restaurant. The recently renovated Newari wing incorporates woodcarvings, oil brick walls and local textiles, while the deluxe rooms in the Durbar wing are fresh, modern and stylish.
The oldest section of the hotel is part of the Lal Durbar, a former Rana palace that is worth a look for traces of an overblown but spectacular baroque decor and some excellent old black-and-white photos of Rana royalty. The borscht at the famous Chimney Restaurant here retains a tenuous link with its Russian past. The back garden (ask for a garden-facing room), two pools and tennis courts provide a rare sense of space. Online discounts of 30% are standard.