Charming, English-speaking grandma Mya Mya, her daughter and granddaughters will welcome you to their 100-year-old home on the river, a couple of blocks east of the market. Rooms are very basic, but bearable once you fall under the hospitable spell of the owners. It offers cheap meals and bicycles are available for K2000.
Ask to see the old visitor books which include a photo and entry by a boyish David Duchovny, who stayed here in 1983 and claimed the guesthouse had 'the best shower in Southeast Asia'. We can only imagine what the others he used must have been like…