High on the hill in a renovated 1930s military fort, Mirleft’s best address is a lovely guesthouse with views over the village, sea and cactus-covered hills. It's an all-suite property, and rooms and common spaces are tastefully decorated with museum-quality antiques, textiles and vintage travel posters. Oscar the huge golden Labrador presides over the pool (heated in winter) and tennis court.
The licensed restaurant (dinner Dh240) has gorgeous views over the ruined hilltop kasbah, which you can easily walk to. Breakfast is Dh70.