An ochre-walled warren of winding streets, whitewashed houses and hole-in-the-wall shops, Azemmour's medina has yet to undergo an all-encompassing restoration. Built next to the banks of the Oum Er Rbia (Mother of Spring River) in the 16th century, its Portuguese heritage can still be seen in its ornate doorways and wooden balconies. Residents have long been associated with arts and crafts – here you'll find traditional weavers, an impressive new artisan centre, and startlingly contemporary murals adorning crumbling walls.
Wandering around the tourist-free medina offers both a journey back in time and a glimpse of life in modern working-class Morocco. Enter through the large gate with its unusual semicircle-shaped arch; the ramparts can be accessed from here. Walk along the walls to see Dar El Baroud (the Powder House), a Portuguese gunpowder store of which only the tower remains. To the north of the medina is the mellah (Jewish quarter) with a still-standing synagogue painted in blue and white. Further on, you’ll get wonderful views over the river.