Ulaanbaatar’s official Shaman Centre is a ramshackle ger teetering on the slope that leads to Gandan Khiid. While not particularly mystifying at first sight, this is the real deal, with a bona fide shaman at its helm holding court daily. The main ger contains a smattering of icons, from fake stuffed tigers to deer heads and bear rugs. Ceremonies (T50,000) can be arranged through the resident female shaman, Bayaremae. Call ahead to confirm.
If you find the centre closed (which happens when Bayaremae is out of town) you can also see shamans in the open grass areas south of the Tuul Gol. This area is about 3km east of the Zaisan Memorial (you will spot the silk scarves tied to the poles on the right side of the road).