Shaded by carob trees and ringed by tiled benches and broad footpaths radiating from a belle-epoque kiosk, Campeche’s appealingly modest central square started life in 1531 as a military camp. Over the years it became the focus of the town’s civic, political and religious activities and remains the core of public life. Campechanos come here to chat, smooch, have their shoes shined or cool off with an ice cream after the heat of the day.