Often used by tour groups, the pretty, community-run Escudo Jaguar overlooks the river 300m from the main embarcadero. Its solidly built thatched cabañas are spotless, and have fans and mosquito netting. The best are very spacious and have hot showers and terraces strung with hammocks. The smart-looking restaurant serves straightforward, but well-prepared Mexican dishes (mains from M$110, breakfasts from M$80).
There's a swimming pool but it's often not that much cleaner than the river.