Whipping up classic Mexican fare since 1860, Mexico City's oldest restaurant has a festive atmosphere, enhanced by live piano music. The menu offers numerous dishes, but everyone comes here for the chile en nogada (an enormous poblano chili pepper stuffed with ground meat, dried fruit and bathed in a creamy walnut sauce). Beware: rumor has it the building is haunted.
The breakfast buffet (M$190) is worth getting up for.