You could spend days in this lovely guesthouse, a beautiful three-storey traditional Malagasy house set in a rambling garden, with panoramic views in every direction. To find it, take the stairs heading downhill from the western part of the ring road; cross the plain of paddy fields, and the hotel will be signposted to your right.
The rooms are huge and pretty, and although the bathroom arrangement is rather quirky (they're on the balcony), they're clean and well-maintained. Home-cooked meals are available (mains Ar3000 to Ar12,000), and the guesthouse rents bikes and organises excursions.