Mombasa’s dilapidated ‘covered’ market is packed with stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Roaming produce carts also congregate in the surrounding streets, and dozens of miraa (twigs and shoots that are chewed as a stimulant) sellers join the fray when the regular deliveries come in. Remember, if you’re chewing, here (unlike Ethiopia and Yemen) you chew the peeled stalks and not the leaves.