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Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

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Come early for pastries, sandwiches and coffee (made with beans courtesy of either Fuglen or Little Nap, naturally); the croissants are famously good, but sell out quickly. In the evening go all in on a tasting course of innovate, globally-inspired Japanese cuisine (paired with craft sake and bio wines, plus ¥5200); reservations required the dinner course.

The menu is seasonal. Sample dish: shrimp with yuzu sorbet and celeriac mousse sprinkled with caramalised onions and candied pecans. You can also order à la carte (entrées from ¥980; mains from ¥2500) in the evening, if there's a seat available.

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