Lilla and Lillo are wonderful hosts at this intimate, old-school wine bar serving up a relaxed, local vibe and a wide selection of Italian labels, mostly from boutique and small-production wineries. To go with the vino, take your pick from the small menu of artisanal salumi (cured meats), house-made pâtés and local cheeses.
If you want to mingle with Italians rather than foreigners, this is a good place to start.