In the maze of lanes leading off from the main square (Piazza Matteotti), hunt out the flower-framed deck of this osteria (casual tavern), which sets the scene for excellently executed fish-themed dishes, often featuring treats such as bottarga (mullet roe). There aren't many tables, so it's a good idea to make a reservation.
L'Osteria dei Quattro Gatti
Elba
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