There is no finer blast to old-world Livorno than this retro snack bar, little changed since its 1959 opening. Push through the plastic fly-net veiling the unmarked door and order the house speciality: a sensational 'five and five' sandwich (ask for a cinque e cinque) stuffed with scrumptious torta di ceci (chickpea pancake, fried in peanut oil and salted).
When ordering choose between bread or focaccia, and also consider adding a slice of aubergine (melanzane) marinated in a ginger, garlic and olive oil 'pesto' of sorts.
