Owned by three sommeliers, this wine bar in the historic Mercato Centrale has a menu that changes according to what produce is fresh and plentiful on the day – it's just as likely to feature triglie alla livornese (mullet in tomato sauce) as it is pasta with an aromatic pesto. It also – unsurprisingly – offers an impressive selection of wine.
Snag a stool at the bar, or order there and find yourself a table in the glassed-in box of a dining room in the middle of the market. On Fridays, local workers head here to relax over a feast of an aperitivo spread and cocktails, artisan beers or wine. There's occasional live music.
