Operated by the Ludovichi family since 1905, Agania serves the type of diehard traditional fare that remains the cornerstone of Tuscan dining. Specialities include sensational antipasti (with lots of vegetarian options), rustic soups, homemade pasta and secondi ranging from lumache (snails) to grifi (lambs' cheeks) with polenta, baccalà (cod) with chickpeas, and sausages with beans.
Arrive early to beat the crowd of regulars, or be prepared to queue. The quaffable house wine costs a mere €5 per bottle.