From the 17th century, nobles and the rich, many from Milan, began to build second residences around Varese's historic centre. Of these, the most sumptuous is the Palazzo Estense, completed in 1771 for Francesco III d’Este, the Austrian-appointed governor of the Duchy of Milan.
From Via Sacco, the main entrance is surprisingly understated as the main graceful facade actually looks south onto the Italianate Giardini Estensi. The building now belongs to the town hall and cannot be visited, but anyone may swan through the entrance into the gardens, punctuated by ponds and, hidden on a rise behind Villa Mirabello, is a giant cedar of Lebanon.
From Palazzo Estense, villa fans could round off by walking half a kilometre from Via Sacco to the 17th-century Villa Recalcati, now seat of the provincial government. You can wander around the outside of the building.