One of Stresa's most gourmet restaurants doesn't advertise itself from its modest perch up a narrow side street. It doesn't need to. Local word of mouth means the small interior is often full, with diners spilling out onto a heated front patio. Walk by and you'll see them demolishing cod carpaccio; saffron, asparagus and anchovy risotto; and lamb stewed in Nebbiolo wine.
You'll want to come back yourself, but you'll need to book a table first.