The beauty of this Venus is in the setting: lakeside with a cafe below decks and views of soporific Isola San Giulio floating on the water. If you can get past the trolley of ageing cheeses at the door you can raid a menu where local ingredients are given unusual twists. Try spaghetti with butter anchovies and coffee powder or fillet of perch with a butter, spinach and citrus reduction.
There's a €40 tasting menu and it also serves pizza.