Husband-and-wife team Francesca and Riccardo have run this atmospheric guesthouse with much TLC since 2003. In an 18th-century palazzo with Instagram-worthy courtyard full of potted plants, it mixes traditional B&B rooms with kitchenette-clad apartments sleeping up to five. Breakfast is served next door in Ai Lumi's tavernetta; guests get 15% discount on other meals there.
Rates drop dramatically in low season. Reservations essential in high season (August, September and Easter week).