Tucked away in a tiny alley in the old town, this formal restaurant is a culinary tour de force, with heavy tablecloths, noiseless service and an ample wine list. A perennial Slow Food favourite, it serves a traditional Sicilian menu embellished with modern twists, including many gluten free and vegetarian offerings. Degustation menus (€60 to €70) are a brilliant culinary experience.
For a primo (first course) try the taglioni al nero di seppia e ricotta salata (flat strings of fresh pasta with cuttlefish ink and salted ricotta), followed by a secondo (main course) of merluzzo ai fichi secchi (cod with dried figs).