Trattoria al Vecchio Club Rosanero

A veritable shrine to the city’s football team (rosa nero refers to the team’s colours, pink and black), cavernous Vecchio Club scores goals with its generous, bargain-priced grub. Fish and seafood are the real fortes here; if it's on the menu, order the caponata e pesce spada (caponata with swordfish), a sweet-and-sour victory. Head in early to avoid a wait.