Trattoria Ai Cascinari

Yes, it’s a bit out of the way, but Ai Cascinari, 1km north of the Cappella Palatina, is a long-standing Palermitan favourite. It’s especially enjoyable on Sunday afternoons, when locals pack the labyrinth of back rooms and waiters perambulate non-stop with plates of scrumptious seasonal antipasti. Dishes include primi of ravioli with broccoli, anchovies and caciocavallo cheese, and mains of succulent, stuffed calamari.