Perched directly above the tiny port, Gino's no-frills village cafe cooks up a bird's-eye view of the big blue sea and ferries sailing to the island. Predictably, the day's catch dominates the menu: ricci (sea urchins), shrimps, squid and red tuna served with sweet onion jam. Pasta fiends will enjoy the spaghetti alla Norma with tomato, eggplant and ricotta.
An antipasti (€15) platter is a grand way to open any meal here.