La Rustica

Slow Food stalwart La Rustica ticks all the right boxes: off the tourist trail, popular with locals and run by a couple passionate about classic local grub. Gaetano tends to the vinyl-lined tables while Carmela whips up old family recipes such as superlative caponata (sweet-and-sour cooked vegetable salad) and polpettone ripieno all'enese (egg-stuffed meatloaf with peas and a tomato sauce).