Freni e Frizioni

Trastevere & Gianicolo

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This perennially cool Trastevere bar is housed in an old mechanic's workshop – hence its name ('brakes and clutches') and shabby facade. It draws a young spritz-loving crowd that swells onto the piazza outside to sip well-mixed cocktails and seasonal punches, and fill up on its lavish, complimentary and mainly vegetarian, aperitivo buffet (7pm to 10pm). Table reservations essential Friday and Saturday evenings.

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Nearby Trastevere & Gianicolo attractions

1. Piazza Trilussa

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Right where the cute little Ponte Sisto pedestrian bridge crosses the Tiber, this small square is a fine entrance to Trastevere. The star attraction is…

2. Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

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Trastevere’s focal square is a prime people-watching spot. By day it’s full of chatting locals and guidebook-toting tourists; by night it’s the domain...

4. Museo di Roma in Trastevere

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Housed in a 17th-century Carmelite convent, this museum hosts excellent temporary photography exhibitions. Upstairs the permanent collection contains a…

5. Porta Settimiana

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Resembling a crenellated keep, Porta Settimiana marks the start of Via della Lungara, the 16th-century road that connects Trastevere with the Borgo. It…

6. Dorothy Circus Gallery

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A stark contrast to the ancient and stoic city around it, Dorothy Circus Gallery is devoted entirely to pop surrealism, a punchy art movement that draws…

7. Fontana del Mascherone

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At the southern end of Via Giulia, the Fontana del Mascherone is a 17th-century fountain showing what looks like a gormless hippy surprised by water…

8. Palazzo Spada

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With its stuccoed ornamental facade and handsome courtyard, this grand palazzo is a fine example of 16th-century mannerist architecture. Upstairs, a small…