Trattoria Zampagna

Southern Rome

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One of a line-up of cute little restaurants with terraces overlooking the hulk of Basilica de San Paolo Fuori le Mura, this humble trattoria offers up wholesome home-cooking as it's done for the past 80-odd years. Tuck into gnocchi – as Roman tradition demands – on Thursday, baccalà (salted cod) on Friday, and tripe on Saturday. The homemade tiramisu is exceptional.

There's also a garden with tables at the back.

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