One of the vendors at the historic Mercato Testaccio, Cesare the butcher (he's the fourth generation in his family to run the business).

©Alexandra Bruzzese/Lonely Planet

Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio

San Giovanni & Testaccio


Occupying a modern, purpose-built site, Testaccio's neighbourhood market hums with activity as locals go about their daily shopping, picking, prodding and sniffing the brightly coloured produce and browsing displays of shoes, hats and clothes. Come lunchtime, the focus shifts to the market's many street-food stalls.