This homey, eight-table trattoria has an epic reputation. Scan the walls for famous fans like comedy great Totò, and a framed passage from crime writer Massimo Siviero, who mentions Ettore in one of his tales. The draw is solid regional cooking, which includes one of the best spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) in town. Book two days ahead for Sunday lunch.
Whichever day you dine, finish with a glass of Foglioli, a limoncello-like drink made with the leaves of Procida lemon trees.