In the upper town, tucked close to the Venetian walls, La Tana remains exceptionally popular for painstakingly prepared Bergamesque dishes served in a sun-drenched interior of exposed brick and colourful artwork, or out on the small front terrace.
Start off with a meat tartare (ox or horse), progress onto a chestnut ravioli with wild boar ragout and crescendo into a stewed beef cheek with polenta and mushrooms.