Meet the gang who are intent on breaking down Italy's beloved course structure. It’s small plates here – although there is a sliding scale of small to large – and the innovative but sublimely local dishes are some of the city’s best. All wine is natural and/or from small producers; in lieu of a list, you and the sommelier will have a chat.
The space is small, smart and unfussy and although everything – produce, technique, wine, service – is thoughtful, serious even, there's something of a party vibe as the night wears on, with lots of fellow wine or food people popping in for a drink or snack at the bar.