At this Quadrilatero Romano institution, it can be almost impossible to secure a table. Do book ahead, don't expect flash decor and pay the not-always-chummy staff no mind. Everyone is here for the pristinely sourced, spot-on Piedmontese cooking that's so traditional it's innovative.
The wine list, too, is thoughtful and occasionally provocative. Some of it is sourced from a family vineyard near Asti, and all of it is natural.