A rambunctious, casual and seemingly chaotic place that turns out some of the town's best food. This is the Piedmontese kitchen at its most essential: come for a mountainous swirl of the signature fine tajarin pasta with ragú, risotto with whatever vegetable's in season, spicy sauced tongue or sliced octopus. But the star of the menu here is the Barolo by-the-glass list.
You can sample widely and well across producers and vintages from €12 to €30, but if that's not your thing there's a less lofty blackboard with local and pan-Italian whites and 'starter' Barolo, as well as other local reds from €3.50 to €8.