It's not necessarily about the rooms (simple but spacious) at this family-run, six-room B&B, but rather the jungly back gardens, which sit right next door to Basilica di San Vitale, though you'd never know it – the tourist soundtrack is drowned out by chirping birds in this wonderfully peaceful urban retreat.
Our favourite rooms are Amaryllis, which opens right into the garden; and Rosa, with its balcony overlooking the same green space (and Luigi, the family rabbit). Breakfast is a step up from the average and there's even private parking.