Just north of the train station, this large and wonderfully atmospheric chaykhaneh (teahouse) is justly popular with locals. The dizi (lamb, potato and chickpea stew) and kashk-e bademjan (eggplant fried and mashed and served with thick whey and mint) are excellent, making it a great lunch venue. In the evening there's live music from 8pm.
If you prefer a quieter atmosphere the cosy restaurant next door offers a wider menu including kababs.