This upmarket restaurant occupies several small rooms and two open terraces in the fountain-centred Zendegi House, a 180-year-old miller/trader's mansion with a museum room of 20th-century oddments, a crystals shop and glass-painting workshop. (It's worth a look even if you don't stop to dine.) The menu is mostly kabab-based but also offers salads and eggplant dishes. Bookings advised on Thursdays.
The rooftop affords intriguing (if slightly sad) views of the partly demolished, mud-built old city area.