Run by clued-up, English-speaking mountaineer Amir, this cosy log-cabin-style restaurant serves up excellent kababs, braised lamb shanks and vegetable dishes. It's on your left near the top of the hill as you enter the village, with an English sign and a grill outside. You can stay here, too, for free – as long as you pay for food and the shower (IR100,000).
Amir can also arrange a house in the village, sleeping up to five people and including dinner for IR2,000,000.