Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant

Near Masjed-e Vakil, this hugely popular restaurant is in the basement of an arcade with galley-style seating around the upper of the two floors. It’s best for lunch, when bazaris (shopkeepers) flock here to eat hearty local dishes, such as baghela mahicheh (rice with broad beans, mutton and dill) and kalam polo Shirazi (beef meatballs). There’s usually live music.