With a cool sunken courtyard, a fine wind catcher and gorgeous rooms with beds and private bathroom, this beautifully renovated traditional hotel is well worth the detour. Even with no intention to stay, the aroma of home-cooked fesenjan stew with beef meatballs makes lunch or dinner (from IR150,000) here compelling. Discounts available in low season.
Nearby attractions include hikes in the 2300m Bayazeh Mountains, including a 15km hike to the lower reaches of a waterfall.