This old-fashioned, government-run lodge has a popular cafe where you can snack on good chicken or vegetarian momos as the toy train whistles past outside. It also serves a wider range of Indian treats for lunch and dinner. It's a 900m walk from the railway station along the main road towards Darjeeling.
There are also reasonable rooms here (single/double including breakfast ₹1410/1880, with balcony ₹1590/2120), and a bar.