Gandhara continues to steamroll the competition with its friendliness and amazing value. The 200-year-old pillared heritage building has three wonderfully atmospheric fan-cooled rooms. Pricier and modern AC rooms are in a new block at the back of the garden, overlooking a mango-tree-shaded swimming pool that wins full marks for cuteness.
The wi-fi is super quick (for India), you get newspapers slipped under your door and there are beers (₹200) waiting for you in a fridge. Chef Bulu does an amazing job plating simple yet tasty Indian and Western dishes.