Some 40 steps down through a barely signed green gate take you from busy Cart Rd into a magical forest-garden wonderland. Here nestles this wonderfully cosy 1890s cottage homestay full of interesting art, books and furnishings. The four rooms are comfy and characterful, the biggest double with four poster bed and balcony. You'll need to like pets.
Booking ahead is essential as the hostess travels widely. Her exacting tastes ensure delicious breakfast and high tea (included, fabulous lemon cake), and dinners are also possible by arrangement (₹2000). It's 3km west of the Old Bus Station. ISBT-bound buses pass by: the nearest stop is RTO, or continue 300m west, jumping off at Hotel Blossom, from which the green gates are 50m further west. To reach the Viceregal Lodge (in around 20 minutes) walk a minute west, take the rising lane marked National Cadet Corps then climb the long stairway to the right from the NCC gate. When this reaches a paved road turn right and after two minutes take the double back, turn left and the Viceregal gatehouse should be in front of you.