Friendly, secluded Trimurti is rare in maintaining the essence of 'old' Dharamkot. Its eight neat, spotless rooms are centred on a lovely green garden but are often booked out from April to June and mid-September to mid-October for popular yoga-teacher-training courses (www.trimurtiyoga.com).
Access is via the multi-hairpin road off TIPA Rd then crossing the first bridge. Or take the rocky lower path from Milan Cafe in upper Bhagsu. The cafe, open to all (8am to 8.30pm), serves excellent homemade food from muesli to salads to cakes plus a vegetarian thali. You can learn tabla, flute, sitar or vocals from Ashoka, the father of the family. Friendly dogs enhance the homey atmosphere.