Hotel Paamiut

The hotel is a long unmarked red building. Use the central door and go upstairs to seek out the unstoppably talkative manager. In galloping, flawless English he seems to be simultaneously understudying for Fawlty Towers and The Shining. Most rooms are overpriced: tatty, slightly musty and with communal bathroom. However, for the same price there are also three bungalows with kitchen and bathroom. One is significantly nicer than the others, and if the hotel is empty (it often is) you might get it to yourself for Dkr794 per person. Rates include breakfast in the underused restaurant, where guests (only) can take a dinner of the day (Dkr68) if they order by noon. There's a surprisingly well-stocked (and well-fortified) wine cellar.