Set back around a flower-filled courtyard, the handsome, super-central, efficiently run Mouria hides just behind the National Bank. There's a shared kitchen – though a full breakfast awaits – plus 12 bright, modern, blue-and-white rooms (with hairdryers and, for most, wooden balconies) and vintage photos all around.
The reliably good terrace taverna was once a regular haunt of novelist Alexandros Papadiamantis.