Hidden away in Rethymno's labyrinth of alleys is this bakery that's been at it since 1958. As well as freshly baked spanakopita and pastries, it's most famous for its bread shaped like dinosaurs and flamingos, as well as kouloures, a lacquered, intricately decorated (but inedible) embroidered bread that makes for a unique souvenir.
Found across Greece, the fading tradition of kouloures has its roots in Crete. In a practice passed down by his grandfather, baker Spanoioakis continues to create the decorated bread, including the wedding roll, the original Greek wedding cake. Each beautiful design is symbolic: pomegranates bring luck; trees, longevity; and rings, an eternal bond.