Overlooking the harbour, five minutes’ walk from the ferry, this central, custard-coloured mansion is one of the most handsome in town. The Danish manager has done a great job with 'old bones': the rooms are light and airy and oh so white. It's in the middle of the waterfront; look up for the sign. Great budget option.
By night the place is decked in candles, the antique sepia photos of the Karafilis family (who originally lived here), magically animated.