Set just back from the portside tavernas and their ingratiating hucksters, gleaming-white Kritikos is the place for seafood in Ouranoupoli. Freshness is assured by the tanks full of live bivalves at the front door, while if you'd care to talk fish, waiters are happy to bring clear-eyed, pink-gilled specimens to your table to discuss your needs.
There's also an attached bar and 'gallery', which in this case means a women's clothing boutique.