This charming old taverna is an Athens gem. There's no signage – look for two sets of doors leading to a rustic cellar. There's no printed menu, just a few dishes that haven’t changed in years. Order the house speciality revythia (chickpea stew) and follow up with grilled fish, paired with wine from one of the giant barrels lining the wall.
The brusque but friendly service is part of the appeal – as is the likely appearance of an accordion player.