At the beginning of the 11th century, when Georgia was entering its cultural and political golden age, King Kvirike of Kakheti had this majestic cathedral built. At 50m tall, Alaverdi Cathedral remained the tallest church in Georgia for nearly a millennium. Situated 20km northwest of Telavi, its exterior is classically proportioned with majestic rounded arches but minimal decoration. Inside, the church has a beautiful spacious harmony, with light entering from 25 high slit windows.
As you enter the cathedral itself, note the 16th-century St-George-and-dragon fresco over the entrance to the west door. Opposite it inside, the Virgin and Child high in the apse dates from the 11th century. The rest of the frescoes are faded to the point that it's hard to discern them for the most part, but they exude a strong and moving piety, only augmented by the frequent chanting and prayer of the resident monks.
Also in the cathedral compound are the summer palace of Shah Abbas’ governor (now the bishop’s residence) and the Alaverdi Marani winery. The millennium-old winery, recently renovated, makes some of Georgia's best wines: it's not generally open to visitors but the cafe across the road sells bottles of traditionally made Alaverdi wine proudly bearing the slogan 'Since 1011', for a (by Georgian standards) whopping 75 GEL to 100 GEL.
The late-September religious-cum-grape-harvest festivities of Alaverdoba last several days, with people coming from remote mountain areas to worship, celebrate and enjoy the local wine.
